Raspberry 914 finally getting some updates, Exhaust, suspension and 5-lug Options

[Stratfink]

I bought my first (and only) 914 about 2 years ago from TDSkip after skulking around in the background here on the forum for a couple of years. I've really enjoyed the car and done a few upgrade and maintenance items (123 Dizzy, new TPS board, stereo, and some cosmetic stuff like Coco Mats). But I have been acquiring parts to backdate the exhaust, update the suspension, and to go 5-lug for quite awhile and finally got into the project. Between work and other projects it is going slow, but the deeper I get into it the more questions I have (and the scope of the project grows of course...).

Starting this thread to share some progress, but more importantly to call on the wisdom of the amazing 914 community for help since I have not done any of this work before.

Thought a good "before" pic would be a good way to start this off...



First step was getting the Monza exhaust and '75 Heat Exchangers off the car...



Generous amounts of PB Blaster were applied to the fasteners for several days before pulling this apart. Luckily no exhaust studs snapped - however in 3 locations the studs came out instead of the nuts coming loose.



You can see the condition of the threads in the picture. Also shown are the new nuts I purchased (although the copper lock nuts are the wrong thread size). I have not tried to remove the old nut from the stud now that the stud is out of the car - perhaps best to get new studs for these 3 locations. I also plan to use some anti-sieze for the re-install.



After getting the exhaust out I could see that there had been some oil leaks that should be addressed. More on that in the next post (as well as the start of the 5-lug work that I got into while stressing about the oil leaks...).

Thanks in advance - Joe

[mepstein]

Beautiful car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Stratfink]

Thanks Mark! The body has a few flaws but its mine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I got started on dis-assembling the rear for the coil-overs and 5-lug conversion. Thanks to some good searching here I was able to get the acorn nuts loose on the stub-axles, and break the 19mm bolts free for the rear calipers. Admittedly when I ordered the kit from PMB I was not aware of the bearing removal/install processes and I was not planning to remove the rear trailing arms. This is where the questions start.

1. I assume it is best to remove the trailing arm in order to get the old wheel bearings out. I have read the threads on slide hammers and other approaches to do this while on the vehicle - but feeling like I am headed for removal to do this on the bench or take to a shop with a press. To get the trailing arm off do I need to remove the suspension console (3 fasteners)?

2. Is there a specific way to drain the brake fluid before removing the rear calipers? Is it OK to just disconnect where the lines connect at the trailing arm and capture the spillage there? Or given the need to bleed the system during re-assembly is another method preferred?

Thanks again - Joe

[rick 918-S]

Nice car. Isn't that Aubergine? I have a Raspberry Car. Or should I say project...

[Jett]

Nice car but looks like Malaga red

[scallyk9]

Malaga Red (L 30 C), a standard 1975-76 color?

[Stratfink]

Malaga Red (L 30 C), a standard 1975-76 color?

Yup. It’s 1975 Malaga red. Except the respray is not a perfect match.

[fiacra]

Thanks Mark! The body has a few flaws but its mine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I got started on dis-assembling the rear for the coil-overs and 5-lug conversion. Thanks to some good searching here I was able to get the acorn nuts loose on the stub-axles, and break the 19mm bolts free for the rear calipers. Admittedly when I ordered the kit from PMB I was not aware of the bearing removal/install processes and I was not planning to remove the rear trailing arms. This is where the questions start.

1. I assume it is best to remove the trailing arm in order to get the old wheel bearings out. I have read the threads on slide hammers and other approaches to do this while on the vehicle - but feeling like I am headed for removal to do this on the bench or take to a shop with a press. To get the trailing arm off do I need to remove the suspension console (3 fasteners)?

2. Is there a specific way to drain the brake fluid before removing the rear calipers? Is it OK to just disconnect where the lines connect at the trailing arm and capture the spillage there? Or given the need to bleed the system during re-assembly is another method preferred?

Thanks again - Joe

Just recently pulled the trailing arm off to do bushing replacement. A picture would help me understand your question about removal of the suspension console, but the bolts you are asking about are likely the outboard bolts holding the trailing arm at the shim carrier. I would take the trailing arm and do the work on a press, at least that's what I did and I found it was fairly easy to do it that way. As far as the brake fluid, I simply used a bleeder screw cap on the hard line when I disconnected it and that worked fine to prevent a mess. You are going to need to bleed/flush the system but no need to empty it first as all the fluid is going to come out anyway.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

looks like malaga to me!!!

I bought my first (and only) 914 about 2 years ago from TDSkip after skulking around in the background here on the forum for a couple of years. I've really enjoyed the car and done a few upgrade and maintenance items (123 Dizzy, new TPS board, stereo, and some cosmetic stuff like Coco Mats). But I have been acquiring parts to backdate the exhaust, update the suspension, and to go 5-lug for quite awhile and finally got into the project. Between work and other projects it is going slow, but the deeper I get into it the more questions I have (and the scope of the project grows of course...).

Starting this thread to share some progress, but more importantly to call on the wisdom of the amazing 914 community for help since I have not done any of this work before.

Thought a good "before" pic would be a good way to start this off...

First step was getting the Monza exhaust and '75 Heat Exchangers off the car...

Generous amounts of PB Blaster were applied to the fasteners for several days before pulling this apart. Luckily no exhaust studs snapped - however in 3 locations the studs came out instead of the nuts coming loose.

You can see the condition of the threads in the picture. Also shown are the new nuts I purchased (although the copper lock nuts are the wrong thread size). I have not tried to remove the old nut from the stud now that the stud is out of the car - perhaps best to get new studs for these 3 locations. I also plan to use some anti-sieze for the re-install.

After getting the exhaust out I could see that there had been some oil leaks that should be addressed. More on that in the next post (as well as the start of the 5-lug work that I got into while stressing about the oil leaks...).

Thanks in advance - Joe

[FlacaProductions]

Looks like great progress, Joe.
I'm usually only available during the week to chip in, but if you could use a set of hands at some point, just yell.

[Stratfink]

Just recently pulled the trailing arm off to do bushing replacement. A picture would help me understand your question about removal of the suspension console, but the bolts you are asking about are likely the outboard bolts holding the trailing arm at the shim carrier. I would take the trailing arm and do the work on a press, at least that's what I did and I found it was fairly easy to do it that way. As far as the brake fluid, I simply used a bleeder screw cap on the hard line when I disconnected it and that worked fine to prevent a mess. You are going to need to bleed/flush the system but no need to empty it first as all the fluid is going to come out anyway.

Thanks for the reply. The bleeder cap makes sense I'll grab one to minimize the "bleeding". And yes, I was referring to the 3 outboard bolts (yellow arrows in the image below). It looks like these have to come off to remove the trailing arm because the pivot shaft looks like it is trapped both inboard and outboard. Otherwise it might be possible to remove the nuts at either end of the pivot shaft (outboard one indicated by the blue arrow below).

[Stratfink]

To be more exact I guess it is the 3 bolt locations that come up from underneath that correspond to the 3 yellow arrows. Am I correct in understanding that this is the way to get the control arms out?

[East coaster]

That’s how I took mine out

[technicalninja]

Those are supposed to have plastic plugs in them (to keep out water).
Often, they are rusted up.
I'd pull the plugs and drench it with a penetrant before trying to break the fasteners loose.
I'd use 1/2 ATF and acetone and let it sit overnight...

You will find shims between the control arm bracket and body. Keep each side of the car separate.

It will require an alignment (by someone who understands 914s) when you are done.

[FlacaProductions]

Here's a pic i found that shows the plugs and hopefully a bit clearer idea of what you're getting into:

[Stratfink]

Finally getting back to the 914 today after a few month hiatus due to work, travel, and working on a kitchen remodel...



Trailing arms came out today - I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to get all fasteners to budge without too much trouble (multiple days of soaking with PB Blaster were not required...). These will go to Mark's German auto to get bushings and pivot shafts pressed out before some clean-up and paint for re-assy.



Planning on replacing the pivot shafts and bushings. Assuming I'll use the hollow vs solid shaft for this street only car - but open to feedback on others experiences with either pivot shaft variety.

Glad to be back to the car and the 914world community!

Cheers - Joe

[Root_Werks]

Looks like some great progress!

Also really like Malaga Red and even like the slight variation from the color on your 914. Looks sharp!

[Stratfink]

Chipping away and making some (slow) progress on the upgrades. I had Mark's German Auto handle pressing out the training arm bushings and the stuck stub axle (apparently that sucker was really in there). Got the arms back a few weeks ago and they look great with new paint and the 5-lug hubs installed.



I was able to replace the trans output seals and noticed gear oil at the side shift console cover as well. Got the shift rod out and the seal replaced there as well. When I removed the shift rod at the firewall a small plastic bushing came loose at/near the coupler. I could use some help figuring out where this goes when re-assembling. It fits the OD on the rod at the firewall but is too large to the the ID of the coupler. Any help from the community on this is much appreciated!

[Stratfink]

Cleaned up the bushing - part number 914 424 224 02



Number 29 in this diagram:



Is this where I already have a brass bushing replacing this?



If that is the case did the PO possibly leave this on the shift rod in addition to the brass bushing being installed?

Thanks again for any inputs - wanting to make sure everything is put back together correctly...

[bkrantz]

Is that the bushing for the shift rod hole in the firewall?