New Rotors and Calipers, Parts/tool list - missing anything? Options

[FlacaProductions]

Greetings,

Gathering parts and knowledge to put new rotors and calipers on my 74 2.0. I’ve read a lot of threads and I think I have a pretty good grip of the process.

What am I missing? Still need/don’t need?

I have the PMB kit coming which is:
Rebuilt OEM Calipers
pre-loaded with PMB-C Ceramic Brake Pads
DirectFit Brake Pad Hardware
Sebro rotors front and rear
PMB stainless lines
bearings for all 4 wheels
front seals

I have:
-Motiv power bleeder
-ATE DOT 4 fluid
-Bleeder/line caps

Thinking Swepco Moly 101 for grease (how much do I need?)

Do I need?:
-Speedbleeders? I think yes.
If still possible, should I have PMB install them so they’re good to go? If not, what’s the best source? Which part number? Are there different manufacturers?

-A bearing/race tool or can I count on using the old races to drive in the new ones? Figuring an Amazon or Harbor Freight version will be good enough for me.

-seal remover for the front seals? source?

-new front bearing caps? (am i going to screw these up on removal?)

Thank you!

[914sgofast2]

If you have never replaced wheel bearings and bearing races before, find someone who has done it to teach you the tricks. You also need a torque wrench to properly fasten the new calipers to the steering knuckle.

[fiacra]

You don't need anything special to pull the seals. A screwdriver will do. I use a seal puller, but that's only because I have it. You can cut the old race and use it to drive in the new race. I use seal/race drivers, again only because I have them. Here's an example:

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-race-...iece-63261.html

I think PMB will not install bleeder screws before shipping. They can break off during shipping and that will create a migraine level headache. They specifically require you remove them before shipping your old calipers to them. You can get speed bleeders from them and install them yourself. I've never used them so I have no informed opinion on them. The Motiv pressure bleeder is awesome. If you haven't used it before make sure you have the right adapter. No need to pressurize above 5 psi. I didn't see new soft lines on your list. Now is the time since you will already have the system open. Get them from PMB as well. Reusing the caps is fine if they are in good condition. You can get them off without buggering them up. I use the Rick Higgins method (from the "Bug Me" videos he did). He uses the billy bar from the jack, but you can use a socket extension. Place it long ways behind the lip on the cap and then hit it with a mallet. The cap pops free and you can easily take it off then. Hard to describe, but you are not using the tip of the extension, rather laying it length wise on the cap so the shaft is perpendicular to the wheel. You can also just walk it off with giant channel locks, but freeing it first using this method has always worked well for me. You don't need much of the Swepco Moly 101. Less than half a tube if I remember correctly. I put the bearings in a heavy ziploc bag, add the grease, remove the air, seal the top and then squish it in. You can use your gloved hands, but it is messier that way. I put the open tube in a heavy ziploc bag to keep it clean. I've never used a bearing packing tool, but that is also an option. Make sure you have a good flare wrench as well. That's all I can think of off the top of my head.

I'll be a contrarian here and say you don't need someone to teach you in person. I recall that Ian did a video on this, so that would be worth a viewing. I know you've wrenched on your car enough to have the mechanical skills to do this. I would put the front wheel bearings, brakes, rotors and soft lines on the beginner end of the spectrum rather than calling it an advanced task. Maybe that's the Dunning Kruger effect (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I think you've got this. In my opinion a torque wrench is a part of a basic tool set, which I'm sure you already have. You already know to ask questions if you run into problems.

[technicalninja]

Bearing packer.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-Handy-Pa...23402&psc=1

Race driver.

https://www.amazon.com/BTSHUB-Carrying-Univ...63669&psc=1

You have NEW rotors and bearings. You don't need to pull the seals anyways, but a screwdriver will work fine.

How do you front caps look? They can get mauled with age and previous removal.
I'm prone to replacing 50 year old caps unless they look MINT.

My Serbo front rotors (PMB) do not have new races installed so removing them is not an issue.

That seal driver is one of my oldest/most destroyed tools I own. It's all "mushroomed" now and I've cleaned up that end of the tool 5 or 6 times over the last 40 years.
I use it for ALL SORTS of stuff including using the adaptors for doing stuff on my 25 ton press. A 'cheapy one" has worked fine for me. Has to be made out of aluminum in my book.

It's not that hard to pack bearings by hand, PM me if I can help.
I will say that AFTER I got my bearing packer I NO LONGER pack bearings by hand.
And the packer uses the center section to apply pressure to the grease reservoir.
You CAN pack by "hand" but it is SHITLOADS easier to step on that puppy!

As for the bleeders, I've never used speed bleeders, the 914 is easy to bleed (compare to a Prius and you'll understand).
But lots of folks swear by them. They look like they COULD be easier to me.

I have a "Vacula" brake bleeder, I'm VERY used to it. I made modifications to it to make it easier to use (reduce flow).
I'm a proponent of PULLING the brake fluid though the lines...

That same Prius has the very easiest to bleed REAR system ever made!
It will slightly pressurize the system electronically. You put into the first step of bleeding, turn the pump on, and merely open the rear bleeders.
Critter bleeds itself at a reasonable flow rate.
Works KICK ASS!

Sadly, there are 10-15 FURTHER steps due to ABS and MOSTLY the power regeneration BS that a Prius does during braking.
It takes ME a couple of hours and 3+ quarts of fluid to get it done.

All the above is to show that a pressurized bleeder will probably work BETTER than my vacuum one. I would be nervous about leakage (at reservoir/lines/master cylinder) especially on a car I've just painted and restored.

Pressurized bleed systems are better, but you've got to be more careful regarding leaks.

EDIT: I left of an important first step...

Clean the new front wheel bearings of any "anti-rust" stuff (B12) and when clean test the fit of the bearings on the stubs. I'd want ALMOST interference fit. You should be able to merely slide the bearing on the shaft with no force but have to be at the exact correct angle to do it.
Check fit of bearing to stub at proper installation depth. Shouldn't be loose and floppy.

Find lots of clearance? New strut housings are the proper answer.
I have "peened" shafts before and used bearing retention Loctite as well when I didn't have the option of new parts.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Loctite-Stre...51189&psc=1

I also try my hardest to NOT install bearings that are made in China. For a 914 German production would be worth double the price.

[FlacaProductions]

@fiacra and @914sgofast2 - In addition to posts here, I’ve read (and read and re-read) Haynes, and I’ve watched Ian’s content on this - very helpful. I know there will be some “learning moments” I think I can get it done. I do have a backstop that’s not far away in case I get into real trouble.

oh - and i DO have stainless lines coming as part of the PMB package.

I have flare wrenches. I’ll get the race driver set as well.

Understood on the seals. No need to pull/change since I’m replacing the rotors w/new.

Good call on PMB shipping without bleeders installed. I’ve read that and also have some cores that I need to make sure are bleeder-free before I ship them off. I’ll order some speedbleeders ala carte as they get good reviews especially for those of us who are usually solo in the garage. I knew I should have had some kids….

Good tip on the cap removal @fiacra - I may order a couple just to have on hand in case i mess em up. I don’t like slowdowns for parts once i get going.

I’ll get one tube of the 101 - I like your method with the ziploc but I think I’ll spring for the bearing packer, @technicalninja - I think that’ll be my best shot for getting them properly packed since I’ve never done it.

Great tips on bearing test fit as well.

Keep ‘em coming - I knew this would be helpful.

[technicalninja]

Oh, nother important thing...

Don't get any on you!

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, human skin absorbs it easily, the liver can process it, but the kidneys cannot (or vice versa-I forget).

It stays FOREVER and is cumulative.

Water is the best solvent.

Keep it off of your skin!

I wish someone had told me that bout 4 decades ago...

[FlacaProductions]

Probably the most important part. Thank you!

[technicalninja]

Here's a couple more...

The amount of grease between the two bearings and in the cap can cause issues.

The "reason" for the extra grease is during a failure and overheat of a bearing it will hopefully create flow by liquefying the additional grease thus continuing to lubricate the hot bearing.

I'm not so sure that it happens this way.
I've never seen the internal extra grease be dirty. It always looks brand new, even on stuff that's gone 100K. Even on stuff that had burned up bearings.

I've serviced hundreds of this style front wheel bearing.

What I HAVE seen is if you OVERFILL the center housing and cap it can "pressurize" the space to the point of popping the cap off or blowing the seal out of its bore.

This is extremely messy!

I'd bet it would work FINE without any grease in the center section or cap but I'm still conservative enough to waste extra grease in the cavities.

Bout 50% is all I'll fill them.

One place I will intentionally over-fill is the recess between the inboard bearing and the seal. I'll pack the inside of the seal as well. The seal DOES require grease, and many folks put them in dry.

As for adjustment: first of all, the Allen key lockable nut should be Federal law...
And I'm not one for government mandates.
It's so much easier to deal with versus castle nut/castle lock and cotter pin and it can be more precise.

You will find lots of ways and suggestions on adjusting them.
This is mine and this will work on anything with this style of adjustable bearing.

I'll remove the center cap of the wheel and the bearing cap. The wheel itself is still bolted to the rotor/hub. front raised/wheel off ground. Tighten nut and spin tire. Check play. Modify adjustments so you can see exactly when you lose the play (wiggle top and bottom of wheel laterally).

Adjust to moment it loses play, lock it down, go drive car 5 miles to seat/initial run in.

Raise car, re-check play. Completely normal to have some. Re-adjust to zero play.

Lather, rinse, repeat...

Each time I'd go further
Second re-check at 50.
If that had more play, then again.

I'd expect to quickly reach "no further adjustment needed". If every time I checked, I had more play I'd take it back apart to see WTF.

Important to fully seat the bearing races in the hub. Non seated races might do weird wheel bearing adjusting things. I can tell when the races go "solid" by how the hammer and driver react. Gets solid feeling and "rings" when you strike it.

At some point it should stop gaining play and you have fully adjusted without ever over-tightening.

Me, I know the basic "feel" for how much pre-load a new bearing required. I'd go a SMALL amount tighter than "no play" and not expect issues.

Re-using old bearings (that had already been bedded in) I'd STOP at 1-2 degrees past no-play.

A car with a tiny little click of play is MUCH better than a car with slightly over-tightened bearings in my book.

You cannot accurately feel the play without installing the tire/wheel IMO.

[FlacaProductions]

Your input is just another reason why I love Granbury....