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> Mystery, Engine Dies occasionally and/or won't start
Literati914
post Nov 4 2025, 11:51 PM
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'72 1.7 with D-jet

Last evening: Finished up replacing a selector input seal on the transmission, buttoned it all up and went for a test spin around the neighborhood.. about two miles in to it, I felt a slight hesitation before braking for a medium speed turn, engine dies right after completing the turn. Pull over, and it won't restart. Not hearing the pump now (but it had seemed kind of loud earlier) (new pump w/ about 300 miles on it), so I switch out the relay in the engine bay. Now I can hear the pump, and it starts and kind of idles for like 4 seconds. After that it basically just cranks and starts for a second or two or three. So we pulled it home, 'cause I wasn't far.

Today: I pulled the front pre-pump (re-usable) fuel filter and cleaned it. There was some crud but I had expected more tbh. Then I replaced the rear fuel filter with a new one. Car starts right up and I immediately put 7 miles on it. A few hours later car starts up fine again, put another 8 miles or so on it.

This evening: Starts up fine, drives to hang out with friends. Then it will not start. Wait a couple hours and it starts up and drives home like no problem. Pull up to house, move trash cans while the car is idling - and it dies!

This has been a bit of an on-going issue with very similar senarios over the last several outings. Seems like a fuel issue to me, but wtf.

It would be funny if not so damn frustrating!

Any thoughts? (besides ditching the stupid d-jet crap)
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Superhawk996
post Nov 5 2025, 08:12 AM
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QUOTE(Literati914 @ Nov 5 2025, 01:51 AM) *

Seems like a fuel issue to me, but wtf.

Any thoughts? (besides ditching the stupid d-jet crap)

Sure sounds electrical to me. Maybe by fuel issue you mean the pump not getting power?

If you truly believe it’s a fuel issue, the first place to check is that your lines under the tank aren’t getting kinked.
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emerygt350
post Nov 5 2025, 08:17 AM
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Does it try to start or just spin over? Have you tried starter fluid when it is in this belligerent state?
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GregAmy
post Nov 5 2025, 08:39 AM
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Jumper the fuel pump relay, short wire between terminals 30 and 87.

This is not a long-term fix for two reasons: the pump will continue to run with the key off and kill your battery, and it's a safety hazard should you get into a wreck (pump will not stop a-pumpin' with the engine dead).

I'm becoming redundant, but I had a similar issue that was fixed by removing the fuel pump relay and *carefully* spreading the quarter-split pins on the relay *slightly* with a razor blade. That relay should fit into the board quite snugly; if it's loose it may be losing conductivity.
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Literati914
post Nov 5 2025, 09:27 AM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Nov 5 2025, 08:12 AM) *

QUOTE(Literati914 @ Nov 5 2025, 01:51 AM) *

Seems like a fuel issue to me, but wtf.

Any thoughts? (besides ditching the stupid d-jet crap)

Sure sounds electrical to me. Maybe by fuel issue you mean the pump not getting power?

If you truly believe it’s a fuel issue, the first place to check is that your lines under the tank aren’t getting kinked.


TBH, when it randomly stopped on me the other night I was on a very dark back road.. trying to make sure I was completely off of the road, calling my son to come pull me home, racking my brain for things to possibly check while using my phone light - you know how it is, busy! I replaced the FP relay but honestly wasn't necessarily listening for the 1.5 sec. prime at the FP from the one that was already installed. I did think to listen for it when I replaced the relay and it was there and the engine seem to try to start better with the replacement relay (4 sec or so).

The slight hesitation I felt before it dyeing made me think fuel starvation, but yes it could be electrical too.

I looked at the lines under the tank when I cleaned the front fuel filter.. they looked ok to me. I know the suction pressures can cause movement in the lines - but then it'll also run many miles at a time without an issue. And sometimes fail to start without any previous suction built up in the lines.
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emerygt350
post Nov 5 2025, 11:18 AM
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QUOTE(Literati914 @ Nov 5 2025, 09:27 AM) *

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Nov 5 2025, 08:12 AM) *

QUOTE(Literati914 @ Nov 5 2025, 01:51 AM) *

Seems like a fuel issue to me, but wtf.

Any thoughts? (besides ditching the stupid d-jet crap)

Sure sounds electrical to me. Maybe by fuel issue you mean the pump not getting power?

If you truly believe it’s a fuel issue, the first place to check is that your lines under the tank aren’t getting kinked.


TBH, when it randomly stopped on me the other night I was on a very dark back road.. trying to make sure I was completely off of the road, calling my son to come pull me home, racking my brain for things to possibly check while using my phone light - you know how it is, busy! I replaced the FP relay but honestly wasn't necessarily listening for the 1.5 sec. prime at the FP from the one that was already installed. I did think to listen for it when I replaced the relay and it was there and the engine seem to try to start better with the replacement relay (4 sec or so).

The slight hesitation I felt before it dyeing made me think fuel starvation, but yes it could be electrical too.

I looked at the lines under the tank when I cleaned the front fuel filter.. they looked ok to me. I know the suction pressures can cause movement in the lines - but then it'll also run many miles at a time without an issue. And sometimes fail to start without any previous suction built up in the lines.



Did you double check your coil connections while you are poking around.

When I was having vapor lock issues the pump wouldn't even sound like it was running but I doubt this is vapor lock.
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Literati914
post Nov 5 2025, 02:53 PM
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QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Nov 5 2025, 11:18 AM) *

Did you double check your coil connections while you are poking around.

When I was having vapor lock issues the pump wouldn't even sound like it was running but I doubt this is vapor lock.


I looked at the coil connections yes.. none of the 4 were unattached (I have an electronic ignitor points replacement), and I also wiggled them around a bit to no avail. I have actually thought about replacing the female spade ends on those wires with small ring fittings though, as they never feel as tight as I want them to. But they've worked until now, so.. plus the engine started right up the next day (after fuel filter cleaning).
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Literati914
post Nov 5 2025, 02:57 PM
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QUOTE(GregAmy @ Nov 5 2025, 08:39 AM) *

I'm becoming redundant, but I had a similar issue that was fixed by removing the fuel pump relay and *carefully* spreading the quarter-split pins on the relay *slightly* with a razor blade. That relay should fit into the board quite snugly; if it's loose it may be losing conductivity.


I had thought of jumping the FP while on the side of the road but could not locate the little loop of wire I thought I had stored in the glove box, for just such a situation.

I will certainly spread the relay pins, seems like good advice, thanks.
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ctc911ctc
post Nov 5 2025, 06:21 PM
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I had this very same problem that only presented itself when it was very cold. I had to sell the car before I figured out the problem that was in 1975. '70 1.7

Most likely culprit?

Ignition switch - these will fail exactly the way you are describing. I would jump the ignition wire - or check for voltage at the ignition coil.
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Literati914
post Nov 5 2025, 07:11 PM
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So if an ignition switch starts to fail - you would still get strong cranking, just no light up? I've never turned the ign. switch and just gotten silence.
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ctc911ctc
post Nov 6 2025, 08:21 AM
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Two separate functions - Grinder is a larger wire (Yellow) that activates the starter motor solenoid. There is another wire (red?) that is for the ignition.

When you are cranking both are energized, when you stop cranking only the ignition wire is activated. When the key is turned to the off position, both are no longer energized.

If you have never replaced the ignition switch, it is a very common place for this type of trouble. I have changed 2 in the last 5 years in a '74 2.0.......

Many people put a relay in front of the solenoid to remove the current draw through the ignition switch.

Intermittent problems are maddening, we have all been there - attack systematically and you will get conquer this gremlin ......


QUOTE(Literati914 @ Nov 5 2025, 08:11 PM) *

So if an ignition switch starts to fail - you would still get strong cranking, just no light up? I've never turned the ign. switch and just gotten silence.

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Literati914
post Nov 6 2025, 10:28 AM
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so just to beat a dead horse regarding the ign. switch, and to confirm... a car that's been out running the streets, then left to idle for a bit, could die from a bad switch? - I ask because I'd never heard that and it doesn't seem completely logical (to me) - but then I know nothing of how that circuit works.
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chmillman
post Nov 6 2025, 10:51 AM
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If turning the key, the engine will always crank but won't start, and if in the on position all of the other electrics work, then I think it would be safe to assume that it is not the ignition switch. (not a bad idea to change it anyway, but that's another story)

As others have said, it sounds like the electrical supply to the fuel pump might be iffy - especially if you don't hear the pump pumping when the problem occurs. I guess a fuel pressure gauge installed temporarily might tell you that at least you have no fuel pressure at that moment.

I would also check all the other important EFI contacts/connections in the engine compartment. Intermittents there can also cause havoc.
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emerygt350
post Nov 6 2025, 11:36 AM
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QUOTE(chmillman @ Nov 6 2025, 10:51 AM) *

If turning the key, the engine will always crank but won't start, and if in the on position all of the other electrics work, then I think it would be safe to assume that it is not the ignition switch. (not a bad idea to change it anyway, but that's another story)

As others have said, it sounds like the electrical supply to the fuel pump might be iffy - especially if you don't hear the pump pumping when the problem occurs. I guess a fuel pressure gauge installed temporarily might tell you that at least you have no fuel pressure at that moment.

I would also check all the other important EFI contacts/connections in the engine compartment. Intermittents there can also cause havoc.


And if you can get some starter fluid in there the next time it does this you can learn whether it is electrical or fuel. If it starts on fluid, you know it's probably fuel related. There is the ever so small chance it is a weak spark and starter fluid allowed it to fire, but that is a pretty fringe case. Or pull a wire and see if it is getting spark.

Again, I can never remember, but does that stupid no start relay under the seat on 74s cut out the fuel pump or the starter motor?
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Superhawk996
post Nov 6 2025, 12:08 PM
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QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Nov 6 2025, 01:36 PM) *

Again, I can never remember, but does that stupid no start relay under the seat on 74s cut out the fuel pump or the starter motor?

Starter
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Literati914
post Nov 6 2025, 01:29 PM
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This car does not have the under seat relay set up, '72.
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emerygt350
post Nov 6 2025, 01:45 PM
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QUOTE(Literati914 @ Nov 6 2025, 01:29 PM) *

This car does not have the under seat relay set up, '72.


Ahh yes, I was confusing you with the other thread with the 74.
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