914-6 shift rod, Bushing replacements Options

[John_914]

I've done a search but want to make sure I have it right. I'd like to replace all shift bushings on my 914-6 with what I believe is stock set up (see photos)

Starting up front at the shifter, Replace #9 and #10 as I would on early 911 using correct parts.

I assume once I disconnect the U-joint just behind the firewall I can move the rod back to replace #10?

Can I replace the bushing at firewall with design that has a split in it, or do I need to remove the rod?

Then there's a bushing at the u-joint. I assume that's available and straightforward to replace?

At the back, I assume I need to separate the rear section of shift rod and remove bracket to replace that bushing.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

[DennisV]

As I recall:
#10 is up near the shifter and the bracket unbolts. That "friction ring" (914 424 224 00 ) that I bought was one piece and snapped in.


I believe there is a spline section between the seats that you can also disconnect the shift rod from inside if needed.


You also want to do #5 and #7 in your diagram. You can buy a kit with everything if you want. I believe everything in there is the same on -6 as -4.

[John_914]

Thanks, very helpful, also learned that bushing 914-424-224-00 is used in all three locations.

[rgalla9146]

You don't have to slide the tunnel rod back. The hanging bracket that the bushing is
pressed into can slide forward.
If you can replace the firewall bushing without loosening the splined adjustment
collar...do it that way. Then tell us how you did it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
If you have to loosen the collar, mark its orientation and depth any way you can before
loosening. This will save a very tedious adjustment process.
The socket bushing at the bottom of the shifter is pushed (with high effort)over the
ball then inserted in the socket.
Mind the throttle handle when reassembling.