Center console clocks Options

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

Does anybody have a working clock in their center console? It seems like everyone clock has died.

I bought a reproduction clock from Auto Atlanta and it broke in less than a year. Complete waste of money.

Has anybody sent their clock to be rebuilt and if so how did it work out?

I think I read somewhere that only 914 clocks with a date stamp of 75 or 76 can be rebuilt as the internals changed?

[Shivers]

This had some info.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=317508

[chmillman]

Does anybody have a working clock in their center console? It seems like everyone clock has died.

Mine works and is pretty accurate. As the car is an early ‘74 (Nov.’73), I don’t know if it’s a ‘73 or ‘74 model. I suspect the earlier one.

[914Sixer]

I have 2 clocks with NEW movements. I was going to send them for new plastic faces BUT North Hollywood Speedometer wanted $125 plus parts. That would have made them cost about $250 each, did not think anyone would be interested at that price.

[FlacaProductions]

I have one that is good to go from a NH Speedo restoration but I'm not going to be back around it for a number of weeks.

If I were you, I'd find a Kienzle mechanical (not quartz) version. I have one and love it. It goes CLUNK every 45 seconds or so as the spring winds itself - just like the 914, it's so analog.

Mine is dated 7/72 so it's too "early" for my 74 but it's not a CW car...

(yeah - my CHT temp is a bit high here but that's been dealt with..)

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

This had some info.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=317508

Thanks. Good info in that thread.

I took my OG VDO clock apart. Unfortunately for me, it’s not an electrical problem (eg. blown caps or resistors). Mine has multiple bad gears (worm and/broken). I do t think this is DIY. I do t have other clocks to poach parts from.

I’m going to see if one of Mark’s NOS internals can be swapped in.

[930cabman]

Guessin I'm lucky. I have 3 and they all work perfect

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

Guessin I'm lucky. I have 3 and they all work perfect

Are any for sale?

: )

[didenpx]

Volvo had small diameter clocks made by vdo in the early-mid 80s. When they fail it’s typically just the caps. Has anyone tried using the guts of one of these with the 914 face?

[930cabman]

Guessin I'm lucky. I have 3 and they all work perfect

Are any for sale?

: )

The 3 are in running driving cars, I will check tomorrow to see if I have a spare

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

So while I had my busted clock out I decided to install a new console wiring harness (fabricated by @Puebloswatcop ) because mine looked rather brittle. Great craftsmanship. It was a simple swap out - my car still had the original main wiring harness plugs in the tunnel area where the console wiring harness connects.

I have a working VDO quartz clock from an 80s VW (I believe), that I was going to use until I find a proper 914 clock (or possibly replace with an oil pressure gauge eventually). When I put power on the 80s VW VDO clock directly from the battery it works. But when I plug the clock into the console gauge wiring in the it does not work.



So I broke out the multi-meter. When I test the console harness clock power and ground wires with a multi-meter, it's not reading any power (with the ignition key "on" or "off"). For the clock it should be powered "on" regardless of the key's position. The other two gauges (temp and volt) work as they should (power only when the ignition is "on") and test perfectly with the multimeter.

Next I tested the clock power wire (black) from the main harness where it plugs into the console gauge harness above the tunnel (under the bottom of the console). It was hard to get the multimeter on the metal connectors in those original plastic connection plugs, but I think I was able to make contact to test. The multimeter showed no power on the main harness black power wire and brown ground).



I thought I would consult with the group ...

What is my next move?

Is there another place where I can test it for power further up stream?

Is I possible the metal connectors inside the plastic housing are corroded or wiring broken? Should I break the plastic housing open to inspect (knowing I will then need to put two new female connectors on using shrink wrap over each since of those 2 connections since I will no longer have the plastic housing)?

[rfinegan]

My clock is correct 2 times a day!

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

I'm really tempted to crack this thing open (since it's hard to get the multi-meter probes in there) to ensure there's power at the plug

Is there another option for testing for power on this wire other than destroying the OG plastic plug?

I removed the entire console and pulled up the carpet ... I didn't see any patching, nicks, or burns on the black wire before it disappeared into the tunnel.

Thoughts?

[StarBear]

Does anybody have a working clock in their center console? It seems like everyone clock has died.

Mine works and is pretty accurate. As the car is an early ‘74 (Nov.’73), I don’t know if it’s a ‘73 or ‘74 model. I suspect the earlier one.

Ditto. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[fiacra]

I'm really tempted to crack this thing open (since it's hard to get the multi-meter probes in there) to ensure there's power at the plug

Is there another option for testing for power on this wire other than destroying the OG plastic plug?

I removed the entire console and pulled up the carpet ... I didn't see any patching, nicks, or burns on the black wire before it disappeared into the tunnel.

Thoughts?

Yes. You can buy a back probe kit or simply slip something like a sewing needle or a "T" pin into the connector and then test off the needle or pin. That way you are sure you are making contact with the connector. One example of a back probe kit:

https://www.harborfreight.com/back-probe-ki...VRoCdqYQAvD_BwE

[fiacra]

@DC_neun_vierzehn

I have this one in my parts stash. Part #9146411190030, same as yours. Bought a set of console gauges from another member years ago and it is still sitting on the shelf. Someone attempted to rattle can spray paint the bezel with it still on the clock. Also, the body of the clock has come off the housing and it rattles around in the housing. Not sure what the "NFG" written in sharpie on the body means, but hopefully not "no effing good." I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping and if you manage to salvage from it the parts you need then how about, on the honor system, you make a $20 donation (or whatever amount you think is fair) to your local food bank? It it is equally as FUBAR'ed as yours then you're out the cost of shipping, but no more, and you've got some extra parts that can sit on your shelf for years. Got a shipping quote from Pirate Ship and it will be less than $7 via UPS ground.

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

@fiacra

Good tip on that probe kit. I will give that a shot before cracking open the plastic plug.

Just shot you a PM re: your kind offer on the NFG clock.

[914Sixer]

This Audi/VW clock is a direct replacement for the 914 console clock. It has to be taken out of case and moved over by un-soldering and removing three screws. You get second hand not available on 914 clock.

[Puebloswatcop]

@fiacra

Good tip on that probe kit. I will give that a shot before cracking open the plastic plug.

Just shot you a PM re: your kind offer on the NFG clock.

You don't have to break the original plastic plug. Take a very small screwdriver (I use my wife's eye glass repair kit screwdriver, so don't tell on me) Insert the screwdriver into the plastic housing from the connecting end of the housing and you can push the little catch tab on the connectors down and gently pull the wire and terminal out of the plastic housing. I couldn't find one of my male terminals, but the process is the same. Those housings are very difficult to come by these days, so removing them results in no housing availble to replace the ones you cut off.

[Puebloswatcop]

I'm really tempted to crack this thing open (since it's hard to get the multi-meter probes in there) to ensure there's power at the plug

Is there another option for testing for power on this wire other than destroying the OG plastic plug?

I removed the entire console and pulled up the carpet ... I didn't see any patching, nicks, or burns on the black wire before it disappeared into the tunnel.

Thoughts?

If I recall your car is a '73. If that is correct:

The power leading to that connector starts at Fuse 11. From fuse 11 it goes to your interior light on a black and red wire. From your interior light, it goes to that connector on a black wire. So if your interior light is working, I would guess that there is a break in that black wire somewhere between the interior light and the connector for the console.
If your interior light is not working, then the issue will be somewhere between your interior light and Fuse 11.