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| SteveL |
Nov 30 2025, 05:54 PM
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 665 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Andover, MN Member No.: 991 Region Association: None
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74 1.8 - I previously replaced the 3-port fuel pump with a 2-port pump, mounted to the engine firewall. I have since sent the 3-port pump in for rebuild and have it back.
I have been fighting fueling issues for a long time - fuel pressure drops to 0, engine bogs down/dies. Wait a couple minutes and starts again. I'm down to assuming that there must be a fuel line kink, or a fuel line collapsing somewhere. SO - winter project - All New Fuel Lines. I need some help from the collective brain trust please. Do I: 1: Move fuel pump to frunk by spare tire, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else 2: Leave fuel pump on engine firewall, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else 3: Revert back to stock setup with 3-port pump, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else To complete the above - what do I need to order for the stainless line update, and who is the best to order from? Are they all made by the same person, or are there differences? (and do I need the reducing stainless line from CFR?) Thank you in advance for all the help - Steve |
| jhynesrockmtn |
Dec 1 2025, 04:18 PM
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 446 Joined: 13-June 16 From: spokane wa Member No.: 20,100 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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I would vote for 1. In my 1970, I've been running a 2 port for a few years. I used a mounting kit from Tangerine Racing that placed it near the steering rack. I also used his lines. He's really good to work with. I put it near the rack because some PO had mounted a pump to the rack itself with some zip ties so the wiring was there already. I don't think the 2 port is your issue unless it is old and not functioning.
If your fuel tank isn't in really good shape, sediment can settle when parked, then get kicked up when moving and clog the fuel sock in the tank. I had this issue and it would start fine, then once moving die. |
| mepstein |
Dec 1 2025, 05:42 PM
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#3
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914-6 GT in waiting ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,269 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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CFR/tangerine racing has everything you need and Chris is a great resource. Just call or email him and he’ll put together a kit to make it easy. He’s supported our cars for decades and is great to work with.
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| 914werke |
Dec 1 2025, 08:43 PM
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#4
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"I got blisters on me fingers" ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11,472 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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| Artfrombama |
Dec 1 2025, 09:18 PM
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#5
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Artfrombama ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 402 Joined: 21-January 24 From: North Alabama Member No.: 27,870 Region Association: South East States
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74 1.8 - I previously replaced the 3-port fuel pump with a 2-port pump, mounted to the engine firewall. I have since sent the 3-port pump in for rebuild and have it back. I have been fighting fueling issues for a long time - fuel pressure drops to 0, engine bogs down/dies. Wait a couple minutes and starts again. I'm down to assuming that there must be a fuel line kink, or a fuel line collapsing somewhere. SO - winter project - All New Fuel Lines. I need some help from the collective brain trust please. Do I: 1: Move fuel pump to frunk by spare tire, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else 2: Leave fuel pump on engine firewall, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else 3: Revert back to stock setup with 3-port pump, stainless lines thru tunnel, new rubber lines everywhere else To complete the above - what do I need to order for the stainless line update, and who is the best to order from? Are they all made by the same person, or are there differences? (and do I need the reducing stainless line from CFR?) Thank you in advance for all the help - Steve I am far from an expert, but I also have a 74 and have had my share of fuel delivery problems. I did replace my OEM fuel lines with stainless, 4 pcs from Pelican. My three port pump was rebuilt when I bought the car and works great! One hot day my car wouldn't start, I thought the notorious 914 vapor lock but turned out to be a kinked fuel line underneath the tank. I've never had a vapor lock problem with the stock pump in the factory location and I live in the Sunny South. Your results may vary. I have installed a fuel pressure gauge visible from outside the car "just in case". ![]() |
| JamesM |
Dec 1 2025, 10:53 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,162 Joined: 6-April 06 From: Kearns, UT Member No.: 5,834 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
Pump in the front somewhere under the tank
Absolute must, Porsche /VW figured this out as the solution in 1975 Other things you should do, eliminate any pre pump filters and use a high pressure low micron post pump filter. VW figured this addition out later on in the 80s. Start there. |
| KSCarrera |
Dec 2 2025, 02:59 AM
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#7
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 343 Joined: 31-January 19 From: UK Member No.: 22,846 Region Association: England |
I have been fighting fueling issues for a long time - fuel pressure drops to 0, engine bogs down/dies. Wait a couple minutes and starts again. That sounds like a lack of fuel tank venting - check the vent line isn't kinked or blocked. You could also try driving with the gas cap loosened a couple of turns to see if the problem reoccurs. |
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