Re-seal Engine after Clean Up Options

[Literati914]

I removed the engine tins from my 1.7 to clean and paint, while also degreasing the engine and transmission. I'm thinking I'll re-seal anything that's convenient to do-so while I'm here. There was an accumulation of baked on oil under the tins on top of the cylinders, not so much under (oil return tubes seem fairly well sealed and clean).. what does that usually imply, if anything?

[mepstein]

In general, just normal for an air cooled engine.

[bkrantz]

Check the cork seal under the oil filler "tank".

Oil on top of the engine can also come from sloppy pouring.

[Literati914]

OK, I'll check that cork seal, thanks.

The oil is (on top) closer to the block end tho... cylinder to block seals maybe? I'll check head bolt torques, maybe they've loosened over time.

[porschetub]

OK, I'll check that cork seal, thanks.

The oil is (on top) closer to the block end tho... cylinder to block seals maybe? I'll check head bolt torques, maybe they've loosened over time.

If the motor is out ,I recommend you remove the cooler and send it in for proper ultra-sonic clean and after that refit with new correct seals ,my last build washed the cooler in solvent and was somewhat amazed with the crud that came ,decided to get it ultra- sonic cleaned and the mate who did it for free mentioned it was still rather dirty.
I quess that proves my point and did the same to my 911 cooler same result a bit less of a priority with that cooler but in IMO the 914 needs all the help it can get .
The rest is straight forward ,cheers.

[Jack Standz]

If you're going to have the oil cooler cleaned, why not consider buying a new one for $37, including free shipping (probably not all the way to New Zealand (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/227141674874?chn=p...c79f52b82fc228b

[Literati914]

If the motor is out ,I recommend you remove the cooler and send it in for proper ultra-sonic clean and after that refit with new correct seals ,my last build washed the cooler in solvent and was somewhat amazed with the crud that came ,decided to get it ultra- sonic cleaned and the mate who did it for free mentioned it was still rather dirty.
I quess that proves my point and did the same to my 911 cooler same result a bit less of a priority with that cooler but in IMO the 914 needs all the help it can get .
The rest is straight forward ,cheers.

If you're going to have the oil cooler cleaned, why not consider buying a new one for $37, including free shipping (probably not all the way to New Zealand (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/227141674874?chn=p...c79f52b82fc228b

I replaced the cooler on my last 914 restoration, was glad I did.. it ran nice and cool. I will buy a replacement, finding someone who even knows what needs to be done around here would be a challenge I'm sure. Thanks for the heads up & link guys.

[Chad911sc]

Just finished putting my engine back together last night….
My new oil cooler said, “might need trimming to fit”
It did.
Had to trim the both sides where the end bracket pieces bolt together.
Had to trim bottom side reinforcement area on the cooler, so that the nut could be placed onto the stud that holds the oil filter.

[914sgofast2]

Check the oil pressure sending unit for leaks and replace it. Replace the o-ring seal on the distributor shaft body. That o-ring is usually rock hard on most of the dizzies I have removed and isn't sealing anymore.

And since the engine is out, I would replace the oil cooler seals and the front crankshaft seal, as well as the rear main seal. Also replace the valve cover seals because it is so much easier to do with the engine out of the car. Obviously replace the seal/o-ring of the taco plate on the bottom of the engine, as well as replacing the two copper washers which seal the nuts of the taco plate.

[porschetub]

If you're going to have the oil cooler cleaned, why not consider buying a new one for $37, including free shipping (probably not all the way to New Zealand (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/227141674874?chn=p...c79f52b82fc228b

Good point Jack didn't know they were so cheap ,hope they are OEM quality however ?

[Jack Standz]

As @Chad911sc mentioned, it required a minute or two with the Dremel to trim the cooler by where the mounting bracket attached it to the motor. Probably the same issue comes up with real "Porsche" parts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) .

No big deal, just the aluminum was a little too wide and was easily trimmed during mock-up.

[ctc911ctc]

I would replace all of the pushrod tube seals as well as the seals on the oil cooler - the oil cooler seals are always hard and leaky.

Check the oil pressure sensor - these leak as well.

I have had very good luck with these once complete - dry garage floor

depending on how deep you went with the engine out - I would do the front/back seal as well.

Transmission leaking? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Pictures?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/party.gif)

I removed the engine tins from my 1.7 to clean and paint, while also degreasing the engine and transmission. I'm thinking I'll re-seal anything that's convenient to do-so while I'm here. There was an accumulation of baked on oil under the tins on top of the cylinders, not so much under (oil return tubes seem fairly well sealed and clean).. what does that usually imply, if anything?

[Literati914]

Transmission leaking? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Pictures?

Wow almost 6 months since I asked this question and just now getting around to ordering engine/transmission seals. Thanks everyone for the suggestions, there were some here that I would not have thought of.

Yes transmission seals are on the order.

Here’s a picture of the front of the engine… guess I should pull the oil pump? To clean and re-seal .. or is that typically unnecessary?

[HFC3]

It’s a perfect thread for where I’m at in my reworking my 914!
You asked the question much better than I could have many thanks

[Literati914]

^^ I cleaned the engine and transmission a little earlier in the year, mostly the sides and under parts. The picture above is just after I pulled the fan shroud, so nothing has been touched there at all in terms of clean up.. and there is plenty of residual grime.

We can see one of the studs at the oil pump is short, not sure why.. but I checked torque and was able to slightly (& safely) tighten that nut a tiny bit. The front of the engine is primarily oil grimed down in that area (lower right side of the picture). So it does not seem like any heavy leaking from the crank seal. I will order seals for the pump - are any sealants recommended in conjunction with that seal? .

Also, there is a large "Hex/Allen" fitting next to the pump area - does that tend to leak, because it's a little "wet" in that area.