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> SOLVED: 911 Oil pressure sender, Can't figure out why it won't work - bad sender(s)
nditiz1
post Mar 27 2026, 07:36 AM
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So I have a distribution block on my engine. A grease gun hose goes from the standard top opening to this block. The block has a large hole and a small hole. The small hole has the standard idiot sensor. This works fine as the light goes off in the dash. A 911 sender is screwed into the large hole. I have a wire going to the gauge in my dash. If I ground the wire to the engine, the gauge pegs at 5 bar/above. The sender is a 0-5bar, the gauge is a 5 bar. What am I missing here? I have even swapped the sender and still I am not getting a reading.
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Superhawk996
post Mar 27 2026, 08:07 AM
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Sender needs a ground path back to the block.

A rubber grease gun hose won’t provide one.

A metal braided hose works better but can still get flaky over time without a dedicated ground to the sender.
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nditiz1
post Mar 27 2026, 08:22 AM
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I thought about that as well. I believe the distro block is made from aluminum or stainless steel. That block is bolted to the engine sheet metal. I even added an extra wire to the outside of the sender to test continuity. Maybe I still have a continuity issue.
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Superhawk996
post Mar 27 2026, 08:27 AM
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QUOTE(nditiz1 @ Mar 27 2026, 10:22 AM) *

Maybe I still have a continuity issue.

Engine tin isn’t a reliable ground. Try a dedicated ground from engine case to your sender.
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nditiz1
post Mar 27 2026, 08:44 AM
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Will do. Also, I may actually have 2 bad senders. The one was unknown that I had on originally. I just put it back on and the gauge pegged as though the spring was broken internally. The other one had a worrisome connector at the top (spins) which could indicate it is not making a connection any longer internally. I will buy a new sender.
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Superhawk996
post Mar 27 2026, 09:47 AM
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QUOTE(nditiz1 @ Mar 27 2026, 10:44 AM) *

Will do. Also, I may actually have 2 bad senders. The one was unknown that I had on originally. I just put it back on and the gauge pegged as though the spring was broken internally. The other one had a worrisome connector at the top (spins) which could indicate it is not making a connection any longer internally. I will buy a new sender.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) neither of those are good signs.

Little troubleshooting lesson for general info:
That is why swapping parts to troubleshoot is a bad plan. With the continued enshittification of aftermarket parts this is more relevant than ever.

A multimeter checking continuity won’t lead you astray.

A) check continuity from sender case to metal engine case
B) check continuity on the signal wire back into cabin to back of gauge.

When I was taught troubleshooting long ago in tech school, they would substitute bad spares. If you tried to troubleshoot by swapping spares you would go in circles and fail.



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nditiz1
post Mar 27 2026, 10:32 AM
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In theory I should be able to blow compressed air into the non working sender and get some kind of resistance correct?
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