My turn at Microsquirting, About to start and tune my 1911 Options

[913B]

It has been a long journey and I am at the stage to start and tune.
I am going to have questions and any help would greatly be appreciated.

Details of my install.

My philosophy for the build was to run what I have and if successful maybe a 2056 someday along with the improvements I learn, an ongoing work in progress.
I started this journey because I was chasing a non-idle issue, at random it would not hold an idle. I hope it does not continue to haunt my MS install.

Hardware
FI stock 1.7 plenum/runners
Fuel pump – newer Bosch replacement that was running my 1911, current set at 35 psi, is this good for MS?
IGN Coil - wasted spark VW 4 tower
TPS - Bosch 3 wire
Injectors - five O, high high impedence 255 cc injectors
CLT and IAT by GM – Dubshop, CLT mounted on ring terminal at #3 cyl, IAT mounted on intake tube of the air cleaner.
Crank sensor - 36-1 VR wheel made by McMark
IAC - PWM 3 wire
MAP - GM 1 bar
WBO2 – 14point7 spartan 3 mounted on a tailpipe clamp

Software:
MS2E 3.4.4 Firmware
current tune - I downloaded from a member, I have since updated the sensors/engine/inj parameters, but will be using his tables for now.

I have verified spark with coil test mode.
I have been playing with the #1 tooth BTDC, was 290, will try 72 next.

Running MS Lite, so first question what is the recommended software package to purchase, do I need the Ultra, Mega log viewers, HD or just the registered version is enough.
I just want to tune the car, not a racer trying to squeeze every last drop of HP.
Smooth drive ability is the goal.

Thanks in advance to the community.....

Ted

[Montreal914]

Clean setup! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I never got to finish my project as I have moved on to a /6 with Motronic.

@JamesM is very knowledgeable so is @GregAmy who has a nice build thread.

Will be watching your progress, cool stuff! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[GregAmy]

GregAmy who has a nice build thread.

11-parter, starting here:

https://tgadrivel.blogspot.com/2020/03/on-m...914-part-1.html

It's long, but it has all my answers, parts lists, and build details including wiring diagrams.

[913B]

Well I got some good news. First to clear up what engine I have. When I purchased it the PO said he installed bigger 96 P/C. It's an original 1.7 but the engine case is a GA. Did some research and I think it has a 2056 because my case is 2.0, Yay!! I think??!!

Second good news, it started and and idling somewhat.

I set the tooth #1 angle BTDC from my research for the McMark trigger wheel should be set to 60 deg for MS2 firmware but the engine won't start with it.

It will start at 21 deg #1 angle BTDC, I would then check the timing for 0 deg TDC and my timing light reads 80 deg advanced.

I read wasted spark timing should be divided by 2, so it is more like 40 deg ?
Is this right? I am using a non-dial timing light BTW.

I have included some screen shots of my settings, if the experts could help me pleassssseeeee (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) @JamesM @GregAmy

[JamesM]

I have verified spark with coil test mode.
I have been playing with the #1 tooth BTDC, was 290, will try 72 next.

Outputs work but have you tested inputs? specifically are you getting a good signal from the VR sensor?


Getting a totally new build started for the first time is one of the hardest parts as every element is an unknown BUT these engines tend to have the ability to start and run even with mixture and timing way WAY off. No start problems I find are usually related to hardware.

Also, not sure why you are guessing at the missing tooth angle, you shouldn't be guessing at anything, everything should be a known value. You should be able to measure the missing tooth angle to an accuracy of at least <10deg

Figure out what your missing tooth angle actually is, then run a tooth logger in tuner studio to be sure you are actually getting a clean crank signal input.


After you get it fired tuning is a whole other ballgame. Pretty steep learning curve there, SO much to go into. Given the differences in systems and engine configurations though it is pretty much impossible to just look at maps and say if one with work or not. there is a lot of theory involved but then you also need to tune to what a specific engine wants. Generally with a type 4 and proper fueling though your max advance under load is going to want to be closer to 27-28 degrees. ~36 under full load is quite a lot.

[913B]

Sorry for all the newbie questions.
I read McMark's trigger wheel setting was 60 deg running MS firmware but it does not start with it.

What is a good way to determine the correct setting or will running the tooth logger help with determining that?

This is what I was basing the angle at since I have the same wheel.
Thank you James

[GregAmy]

What is a good way to determine the correct setting or will running the tooth logger help with determining that?

The manufacturer of that product will have that exact info. Here, for example, is Mario's instructions:

https://thedubshop.com/type-4-crank-trigger/#hardware

I know you have a lot of questions, but honestly everything I know is in that blog, that's why I took the time to write it all up. I know it's DL;DR but it's all there. That's why it's DL;DR.

If you want some detailed assistance/management of your specific design then I have a couple guys that are willing to work with you through the whole process...of course, they charge by the hour, which is to be expected. PM me if interested and I can hook you up.

Keep chipping away at it. I'm deep into racing season and away from home every week (Lime Rock this weekend, Road America next weekend, back to Lime Rock the weekend after that, Watkins Glen the weekend after that...and I'm not really sure after that) but I can help with simple questions.

- GA