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| Dropping your four cylinder engine |
HOW TO DROP YOUR FOUR CILINDER ENGINE - part 2
By Mark D'Bernardi
It's not necessary to remove the muffler to drop the engine, but if you're going to be splitting the engine and transmission now is a good time because you have lots of access.
Notice how I put the bolts back where they go so I don't loose them.
Disconnect the tranny ground strap (13 mm wrench). Now is a great time to replace it.
Here's a wide angle shot showing where the ground strap is hiding.
Muffler and rear valence removed.
Disconnect the starter. This car has the questionable secondary relay "upgrade".
For cars without this you need to remove the two ring connections (13 mm wrench) and the single spade connector.
If your car has the questionable "upgrade" make notes as to where the wires go.
This isn't necessary if you won't be separating the transmission from the engine.
Remove the cover from the shift console and unscrew the cone screw (4 mm allen) from the shifter ball cup.
Pull the ball cup towards the rear to remove it from the shifter shaft.
Remove the cone screw (4 mm allen) from the front shifter joint.
There is a rubber boot that must be pulled out of the way to access the screw.
Pull the two wires from the reverse light switch on the transmission. They are covered by a boot and pull straight out.
Disconnect the CV joints from the stub axles. It takes a special 12 mm serrated socket but careful use of an appropriately sized allen wrench can do the job.
You may need to raise one side of the car a bit to turn the wheel and access all four bolts. I often don't need to when loosening.
The serrated socket is one you'll use more than once over the life of your car. It's recommended you get this right tool to do the job (Am I making my point clear enough?).
The CVs can be difficult to remove from the stub axles. Careful application of hammer and screwdriver can coax it free.
Remove the heater cables from the flapper boxes (8 mm wrench) and replace the barrel nuts onto the cables once free.
Disconnect the clutch by clamping pliers or locking pliers onto the cable end (not the actual cable) and removing the nut and locking nut (11 mm wrench).
Make sure you have two regular nuts. Nylocks will overheat and loose their "locking" power. Best to just use an additional lock nut.
Ratcheting box end wrenches come in really handy here.
« back to part 1
go to part 3 »
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